Kustom Coach Werks ~ View topic

Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Nor-Cal

Wanting to know the specifics on how to build my own drop spindles for my single cab. Planning on building a beam like in the sites video but would also like to get dropped spindles. Any help would be really appreciated.

How to build your own type 2 dropped spindles.

Here you can see the difference. The idea is to flip the link pin carriers upside down and turn 180 degrees.

The fist step is to remove the link pins, link pin bushing, greese zerks, and pinch bolt. Then clean all of the greese/dirt build-up off of the spindles. After they are clean, press them apart. I use a steel rod through the upper link pin hole, and a home made tool that presses down on the two flat spots of the spindle

After they are apart you'll need to knock out the cap on the bottom of the spindle.

Because of the flip, the upper link pin will now have clearance problems. this is solved by a little careful grinding. Some people like to weld a gusset on the back side to reinforce the area that is be clearanced. My thought has always been that the heat will from welding will weaken the spindle. I remove the greese caps and seals from the link pins then grind the bare minmum amount from the spindles. I like to check and recheck as I'm grinding with a knuckle and a link pin that has 5 shims stacked behind the head.

After they have been clearanced, press them back together in the new arrangment. Press untill the noch in the king pin is lined up with the hole in the knuckle. You don't want to press them together too tight or else they will be hard to turn. Also note that I had to remove the fenolic washer from the king pin. This is because of the difference in thicknesses between the upper and lower king pin bushings. Finally install a new pinch bolt, greese zerks, link pin bushings, and link pins.

Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Nor-Cal

Thank you so much for that pictorial and the explanation of what needs to be ground. Now Im sure that I can build my narrowed beam and spindles for my single cab. Would a beam identical to the 4.5" in the video combined with the spindle drop be fine with low pro 14"s. Right now I found out my sc was dropped by pulling torsions up front and I want to do away with that asap. Again thanks

Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Nor-Cal

Hey franz! Just wondering If I were to purchase those pre fab side plates for the beam I want to build how much cash would I need to save?

WE sell thge shock towers for $100 a pair.

Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Nor-Cal

Had another couple questions about the spindles.

Got them almost pulled completely apart. Want to know Should I get the bushings and bearings mic d to check and make sure there wont be to much play. Then if all goes well just put back together with new grease seals? Want to get my spindles built but dont want to put it back together with old seals and sloppy bushings. thanks for the help so far its been great.

One more question I have is why do people say that nates 5" spindles ride better than flipped stock spindles?

Inspect the link bushing for normal bearing failure charateristics. It they look good, they are. I only replance link pins about 30% of the time. If your spindles are 63 or earlier then you'll have to re-use your originals or find some good used, as reproductions are not avalible.

Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Nor-Cal

So basically If it looks cool then just get new seals? The seals are crusty and falling apart.

Yeah, if they are avalible for a decent price. You can buy a 64-67 link pin kit with new seals for about $35.

Joined: 22 May 2005 Posts: 109

The 5" spindles are a cut and weld style spindle in stock configuration (without the flip). They ride better because you decrease the negitive trailing arm angle.

Joined: 23 Dec 2006 Posts: 6

Hey Guys
Great instructional Applause

I've started on my spindles, but am a little confused as to how much material to remove? Does the spindle body still need to be able to swivel 160 degrees? That seems like a lot to remove. Any help would be great.

Yep, make sure you can turn the link pin carrier with the link pin installed past the spindle. Your not useing the link pin caps are you?

Joined: 23 Dec 2006 Posts: 6

Hey Franz
Thanks for the super quick reply!!! No I'm not using the link pin dust cap. That looks like alot of material to remove ..... it doesn't seem that much from your photos. So just so I'm clear, I should be able to fit the link pin into the carrier and then swivel it into it's "normal" position (wheels straight ahead)? Anxious